Ablutions aside, the bathroom is more than just a practical pit stop, and its design can rival any space in the house. You just have to be mindful of every single component: from the tiles to the tub to the shower enclosure and layout. As these images prove, a beautifully-designed bathroom is enough to leave you in a state of pure bliss.

Source: HGTV

With black toilets making a comeback (yes, they are) beat the trend and add a black bathtub to your spa retreat you won’t regret it with this inspiration.

See! These bathrooms can turn a black bathtub into a timeless piece when done right.

If you’re concerned about some water that you found on your bathroom floor,

please rest assured that there are a number of common possible causes for the problem. After you eliminate the most obvious cause (poor aim?), consider the following before presuming the problem is with the seal between your toilet and the sewer line. Usually, the issue is less costly than the potentially expensive possibility of wastewater coming up from beneath your toilet.

Where to Start

Condensation: Probably the most common cause for excess water on the floor of a bathroom is water condensing on the outside of the toilet’s tank and dripping onto the floor. This is commonly referred to as the tank “sweating.” Tank condensation/sweat is caused by the difference in temperature of the water inside the tank, which is usually very cold, and the temperature of the air outside the tank in the bathroom, which is often warm and steamy. Tank condensation sometimes occurs more often in the summer months rather than the cold winter months, but can occur any time of year if the conditions are right.

There are easy solutions to this type of problem, such as toilet tank liners (which insulate the cold water inside the tank from the humid outside). Unfortunately, it’s not convenient to confirm the water on your floor is completely an issue of tank condensation/sweat. Basically, you will need to wipe the outside of your tank thoroughly with a towel and then over time, try to visually detect whether or not water is gathering on the outside of the tank again.

Water leaking from inside the toilet tank: Once you’ve confirmed that the problem you’re experiencing is not due to tank condensation, then the next best place to begin would be to eliminate the possibility of you having water leaking from the tank itself. This is a fairly easy thing to check. Start by removing your toilet tank lid (be very careful, because tank lids are extremely fragile, can be heavy and are usually slippery when wet) and add some organic-based coloring (such as food coloring) to your toilet tank water.

After adding the coloring, do NOT flush the tank, but instead wait a little while for the tank water to change color and settle. If after about 10-15 minutes (without flushing the tank) you find the water on your floor to be the same color as the colored water inside your tank, or if you see any colored drips coming from anywhere on your tank, then you’ll know you have water escaping from the toilet’s tank since that IS the only place you have the colored water.

The next thing to do would be to identify where the water is coming from. Any cracks in the porcelain tank should be discolored and highlighted by the tinted water. The tinted water will usually help in finding any leaks around the bolts and rubber seals between your tank and bowl or from the foam gasket where the flush valve allows water to enter the bowl.

Other Possibilities

Leaking shut-off valve: Make sure water isn’t seeping from the pipe connection behind the shut-off valve, near the wall. If it is, the valve may need to be replaced (although it may be possible for you to tighten the valve onto the pipe, depending upon the type of valve and pipe you have).

Leaking supply line: Check for water dripping from the nuts on each end of the supply line, where the line attaches both to the inlet of the toilet’s fill valve (on one end of the flex) and the shut-off valve on the wall (at the other end of the flex). If you have a rigid supply line, you can try replacing the supply washers. Sometimes the supply line will be attached directly to your shut-off valve as a single piece unit. We recommend using flexible stainless steel water flexes as they are easier to attach and are very reliable. If you do have the single piece valve-with-supply-line, we recommend replacing it with a separate shut-off valve and a flexible supply line (two separate pieces).

Water coming from elsewhere in the bathroom: Very often, your toilet will be the lowest fixture in the bathroom causing water from the shower or the bathtub to pool at your toilet. This will make it appear as if the water is coming from the toilet when in fact the cause is much simpler and less expensive. You can try adding a throw rug, or two, to your floors to see if this eliminates the problem.

And Finally…

Leaking from underneath the toilet: The wastewater should only seep past a bad wax ring if the water is backing up from further down the line. Even when a wax seal is bad, the water that is being flushed through a free drain shouldn’t escape past the wax on the closet flange (beneath the toilet) and onto the floor as the water is droppings straight down, directly from the toilet and into the waste line. If the water on your floor is obviously wastewater (indicated by its coloring and noticeable smell), then your problem is likely more than just a bad wax ring. Although you may not be experiencing a recurring overflow problem with your toilet, the water is still most likely backing up and out through the first point of least resistance (from beneath your toilet). Along with resealing your toilet bowl (with a new wax ring and perhaps caulking around the base), we strongly recommend you investigate the possibility of a stoppage in your waste lines. In that case, simply replacing the wax ring would not solve your issue and you could then encounter increased drainage problems due to the existing stoppage in your lines. The new wax ring may then fail if the wastewater was continually backing up to it.

If you are ever in doubt, please contact us either by phone, email,

or use our contact form below.

The constant dripping can slowly drive a person insane, not to mention the hundreds (if not thousands) of gallons of water you’re paying for – all of it just lost down the drain each year. Save your sanity and and get that leaky faucet fixed.

First things first, you need to figure out where the leak in your faucet is coming from.

Go to your faucet and check it out while you answer the following questions. Dry the area around the faucet before you begin so you can easily identify any new drips, and be sure to check underneath the sink for leakage as well.

• • If your faucet is turned off, does water still drip out of the spout?
    • If the answer is yes, then some or all of the internal parts of the faucet may need to be replaced, depending on your water condition.

• • If you turn your faucet on, is water leaking around the base of the faucet as water is running out through the spout?
    • If the answer is yes to this question, then usually the o-rings surrounding the spout just need to be replaced.

• • If you turn your faucet on, does water leak or spray out through the top of the handle?
    • Replacing the cartridge or stem will fix this. But it could just be an o-ring needs to be replaced.

• • If your faucet is turned off, does water leak around the base of the faucet, but not out of the spout?
    • The faucet housing itself may have developed a pin hole leak. This happens very rarely, but it can still happen. If this is the case you could have water under the sink, inside the cabinet. Check all of the water supply line connections for possible leaks and if the only leak is from the base of the faucet you will most likely need to replace your faucet.

If your faucet isn’t exhibiting any of the above behaviors, but it’s still leaking…well, we recommend calling us or simply replacing the faucet. But if you were able to discover the source of your leak – yay! Let’s move on to the next step.

Now that you’ve discovered where the leak is coming from, it’s time to repair it.

One other thing to keep in mind – don’t bring any notions to the job that it’s necessarily a snap and you’ll be done in 15 minutes. That’s the surest way to set yourself up for disappointment, since even seemingly simple plumbing jobs require patience and care to complete properly. Make sure you have a backup plan if for some reason the repair doesn’t go smoothly or the problem is bigger than you suspected. For example, if your kitchen faucet is the one leaking, do you have another means of getting water if your faucet is out of commission for a few days? Plan ahead, just in case!

Step One: Turn off the water to the faucet.

There are usually shut off valves, also known as stop valves (one for hot and one for cold), under the sink for such an occasion as this. If you do not have an angle or straight stop valve under the sink, you will need to turn off the water to the whole house.

Once you have turned the water to the faucet off, turn or move the faucet handle(s) to the open position to check and make sure the water is off. At this point we suggest you put a stopper or rag in the drain to remove any possibility of parts accidentally disappearing down the drain. Trust us, this happens. And it isn’t fun.

Step Two: Remove the faucet handle(s).

Most acrylic style handles use a cosmetic cover button to hide a flat head screw underneath. Single lever handles usually have a recessed allen screw discreetly and strategically hidden in a location not easily seen when the faucet is in the off position, so you may need to grab a flashlight and do some hard looking.

Once you have discovered how to remove your handle, use a screwdriver or hex (allen) wrench, whichever is needed, and remove your handle. You do not normally have to remove the allen screw completely from the handle to remove the handle. Often times when the allen screw is completely removed it is accidentally lost or easily misplaced.

Step Three: Remove the retaining nut(s).

Once the handle is removed you will find there is always some kind of retaining nut that holds the internal parts in place. Retaining nuts can have exterior threads that tighten onto the main body of the faucet, or have interior threads that will tighten into the body of the faucet depending on the design of the faucet. We recommend you use a box end wrench or crescent wrench to remove retaining nuts. Some retaining nuts are also a cosmetic part of the faucet and the use of pliers or channel locks can mar the finish.

Step Four: Determine what kind of mechanism your faucet uses.

There are basically three types of internal movement mechanisms used in faucets – cartridges, compression stems, or ball assemblies. Most single control faucets use either a cartridge or a ball assembly. Usually, you can easily distinguish between these two styles once you remove the handle on a single control faucet, as ball faucets literally have a ball inside (with a short handle sticking out of the ball). If you have a 2-handled faucet you can usually determine what style your faucet is simply by turning the handle. If your faucet has a cartridge, the handle will turn left or right either a quarter or half a turn and stop in the same place each time. If the handle rotates more than half a turn, and continues to rotate 360 degrees until it reaches its limit, then you have a compression style faucet.

Step Five: Remove the internal working parts.

PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE ORDER IN WHICH YOU REMOVE THE INTERNAL FAUCET PARTS. We cannot stress this enough. Many faucet repair kits don’t come with instructions specific to your individual faucet model, and if you don’t put the components back in the same order, you may have bigger problems later on. We suggest taking notes, or maybe even taking a quick photo of your faucet with the handles off or a series of photos as you remove the components.

If you have a cartridge, then you will just pull the cartridge straight out. Ceramic disc cartridges can usually be cleaned and the rubber seals at the bottom replaced and the cartridge reinserted for prolonged service. However, if you replace the rubber seals and reinsert the cartridge and find your faucet is still leaking then you will usually need to purchase an entire new replacement cartridge. Sometimes the ceramic discs can be scratched by fine sand or grit in the water causing them to leak.

If you are removing the retaining nut and the stem is threaded through and attached to the retaining nut, then you have a compression-style faucet and the stem will have a washer screwed to the bottom of it. Once you have removed the stem, examine the threads, any o-rings or packing washers, and the rubber washer at the bottom of the stem. As long as the metal retaining ring for the washer is in good condition, then just the washer can be replaced. If the metal retaining ring is not in good condition, then the entire stem will need to be replaced.

With ball assembly faucets, once the top cap is removed, the cam will be exposed. The cam is the plastic piece with the lever poking through it. Remove the cam, cam washer, and control lever ball assembly. Examine the control ball – if it is damaged or scratched, you will need to replace it. If not, you’ll just need to replace the rubber valve seats and springs, and maybe the o-rings.

Step Six: Find your replacement parts.

It’s best if you remove the parts and bring them to a plumbing supply store, rather than buy replacement parts before you take the faucet apart and risk having to return them if they’re the wrong ones. You can look for the parts yourself if repair kits are on a wall display, or you can ask a sales person for help. In either case, don’t leave the store until you are sure the parts in your hand match those that you brought in. It also helps to know the make of the faucet you’re trying to repair, or show the sales person your photos.

Step Seven: Reassemble the faucet using the replacement parts.

Here’s where your pictures or notes come in handy – all you really need to do is put everything on in the same order you took it off. Remember to coat your o-rings with plumber’s grease (usually included in most repair kits), and just take your time getting everything put back together. Make sure each piece fits properly before you continue.

Step Eight: Turn the water supply back on and check for leaks.

If your faucet isn’t leaking anymore, move on to the next step. If you’re still experiencing a problem and you didn’t replace ALL of the components, you might want to consider going back and replacing the ones you didn’t replace before. If you DID replace all of the components, you may need to call in a plumber or replace the entire faucet.

Step Nine: You did it. Your faucet no longer leaks. You just saved yourself some money on your water bill, and helped to conserve our most precious natural resource – fresh drinking water. You’re awesome.

If these steps seem overwhelming to you or you simply do not have the time.

Contact us by phone, text (519-575-5639),

email (info@coppermechanical-ltd.ca)

or using our submission form below!

Whether your gorgeous vintage bathtub is the focal point of your bathroom or you’re just stuck with an old tub, you want to keep it looking clean and brand new. But how? We found the best ways to keep your tub sparkling; read on for tips on taking care of your porcelain beauty.

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If you have a a porcelain tub you wish to replace, contact us and you may be able to trade in your existing porcelain tub for a discount on our bathtub models.

Things You Will Need

• Household cleaner
• Screwdriver
• Painter’s tape
• Rubber gloves
• Trisodium phosphate or phosphate-free substitute
• Scrub brush
• Fine-grit sandpaper
• Sanding block or palm sander
• Shop vacuum
• Tack cloth
• Plastic sheeting
• Acrylic primer
• Commercial-grade paint sprayer
• Scrap lumber
• Epoxy acrylic or acrylic polyurethane enamel paint
• Silicone caulking
• Caulk gun

Tips

• If your tub has small nicks in the surface and you don’t want to repaint the entire tub, you can repair them with appliance repair paint. Dab the repair paint on the nick with the applicator in the bottle and feather the edges to blend with the surrounding surfaces. Allow the paint to dry.

Warnings

• Open windows and doors to allow adequate ventilation while you are using the spray painter.
• Wear a mask and protective eyewear as you use the spray gun.

Source:  HomeGuides

Need Paint Inspiration?

Lime and calcium streaks can leave your tub looking dull and chalky. Clean off these hard water deposits in a few simple steps to keep your fixtures looking shiny and new – and give your old bathroom an instant upgrade.

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Bathtub cleaning is a chore that everyone wants to avoid. While you can’t avoid giving the tub a good scrub forever, you can hold heavy cleaning at bay with some easy regular maintenance (we hesitate to even call these moves cleaning). So, follow these simple tips and you’ll have a sparkling tub without all the hard work.

Adding a bathtub with jets to your home is a great way to add a little luxury to your everyday life. From soothing sore muscles to calming the mind with a relaxing soak, jetted tubs have many benefits. But just like many of the other items in your bathroom, they can also harbor bacteria and have significant soap scum build up as a result of bubbles, body oils, and soap. Even if you can’t see it, it’s important to clean out the jets of your bathtub regularly to ensure that they continue to function properly and to ensure that you’re actually bathing in clean water and not with gross germs.

It’s a good idea to avoid using certain products in jetted tubs — such as baby oil and bubble bath — to reduce the amount of buildup to begin with. and to refill the tub with warm water and then run the jets for 15 to 20 minutes to clear them out after each use. But even the most cautious homeowners will still need to do a deep clean of their jets once per month if they regularly use their bathtub. This requires just a few simple steps.

Fill the tub with hot water to at least three inches above the height of the jets. Add two to four teaspoons of powdered dishwasher detergent (or another low-foaming disinfectant). For a deep clean, you can also add up to one-half cup of bleach. Run the jets for 15 minutes, and then turn off and drain the bathtub. Refill the bathtub with cool water and run the jets for another 15 minutes. Drain again, and your jets should be free and clear of all the soap scum and germs that you’d rather not have joining you the next time you settle in for a relaxing bath.

Source: HowItWorks