Ablutions aside, the bathroom is more than just a practical pit stop, and its design can rival any space in the house. You just have to be mindful of every single component: from the tiles to the tub to the shower enclosure and layout. As these images prove, a beautifully-designed bathroom is enough to leave you in a state of pure bliss.
Source: HGTV
]]>Source: Houzz
There are good reasons to have two sinks in your kitchen — if you’re lucky enough to be able to afford that option, of course. Having two properly placed sinks improves kitchen workflow, allows multiple cooks to work in comfort simultaneously, and prevents dirty dishes from getting in the cook’s way.
Why Have a Cleanup Sink?
In a nutshell, the cleanup sink is for washing dishes, pots and glassware. It’s for cleaning up! But why do you need a dedicated cleanup sink? Because readying a meal and cleaning up afterward are two separate processes that should be physically separated. That’s how restaurants do it — the person busing tables wouldn’t dare enter the chef’s domain, after all — and the same strategy works beautifully at home.
Creating a Cleanup Zone
In order for your cleanup sink to function properly, you’ll want to surround it with the proper tools and equipment. First, the sink needs to have counter on both sides — ideally at least 3 feet per side, 2 feet at a minimum. This is necessary so that dirty dishes can move, assembly-line style, from one side to the other. Second, you should place wall cabinets or alternative storage around the sink so that plates and glassware have a home close by.
Third, you definitely want to have the dishwasher next to the cleanup sink, and your trash pullout close at hand. Finally, you should have a drawer nearby for storing silverware.
Once these items surround your cleanup sink, you’ll have created a well-functioning cleanup station — mission control for setting the table and cleaning and putting away the dishes.
What to Consider
There is no one-size-fits-all approach when selecting your cleanup sink. Instead, your decision will come down to your needs, preferences and priorities. The details are really important for making the best choices!
1. Choose Bowl Number
One of the first decisions you’ll want to make about your cleanup sink is whether you want one bowl or two. When everyone washed dishes by hand, double bowls made a lot of sense. But today many people use dishwashers so powerful that rinsing dishes beforehand is not required. If you’re not hand-washing or pre-rinsing, do you really need two bowls?
Single-bowl sinks have a few advantages. They fit large items while taking up a minimum of counter space. They also fit the modern lifestyle, where hand-washing is often done with running water (instead of a full bowl of soapy water followed by a rinse). Single bowls also allow you to choose from the popular apron or farmhouse styles, which are typically just one bowl.
If a double-bowl sink makes the most sense for you — maybe you’ll be hand-washing your grandmother’s china frequently — you may want to consider a model with unequal bowl sizes, as shown in this photo, to get maximum width in the large section.
Tip: People have different preferences, but if you do choose two bowls, I recommend that you place the garbage disposal on the larger side. That way, you’ll be able to soak your casserole dish, then dump out the food bits directly into the disposal.
2. Get the Right Width
No matter how many bowls you prefer, your cleanup sink should be wide enough to soak platters or lasagna pans. Single-bowl sinks are commonly 30 to 36 inches wide, while double-bowl sinks are frequently 33 to 42 inches wide. You may want to bring your favorite large dish along on your sink-shopping trip to be sure it will fit inside your chosen sink. If space in your kitchen is limited, I recommend choosing a single bowl so that you have the greatest amount of continuous sink-basin width.
]]>
With black toilets making a comeback (yes, they are) beat the trend and add a black bathtub to your spa retreat you won’t regret it with this inspiration.
See! These bathrooms can turn a black bathtub into a timeless piece when done right.
]]>
- Turn off and drain your garden hose (yes, the one in the garage too!) and any sprinkler systems. That means also blowing out any leftover water in the underground lines. This if left can do damage to the sensitive components that make up your system, and hey, nobody wants to pay to fix that. If you need help with this contact us at Copper Mechanical, a small fee is better than a large one. If you are unsure where your shut off is for your sprinkler or hose? Give us a call and we can talk you through it.
- Clean your gutters with those last fallen leaves and take a peak at your sump pump and drains (if you have one; if your foundation lies high enough above the water table you may not have one). Make sure there are no blockages and that its functioning properly. Trust me you do not want to deal with the aftermath of a snow melt with a non functioning sump pump or after a heavy rainfall as a homeowner.
- If you have a well, give it a good inspection, looking for any cracks or damage. You do not want to be stuck without water if it turns out your well is frozen.
- Make sure your waterlines are properly insulated to avoid freezing or bursting. If you have a crawl space, close up the vents and stuff insulation over the openings, make sure that any pipes that run alongside outer walls are well insulated. Fill in any cracks to avoid even an ounce of cold air entering.
- Inspect and clean your humidifier, water heater, and fireplaces to ensure each unit is working properly. If you are not sure what to look for contact us today and we can help you out.
- Consider upgrading to a programmable thermostat. If you are planning on travelling someplace warm during the winter, a programmable thermostat can help keep your home at the correct temperature during the day and night to save on energy costs and keep your home comfortable.
- Change batteries in smoke detectors and carbon monoxide alarms. You never know when you might need them, so make sure they are all in good working order!
- Fix any waterline leaks you are aware of. You can usually spot these from water marks on your ceiling. It is also a good idea to inspect your water pump, water softener, iron filter, water heater and pressure tank to ensure nothing is leaking around these units either. If you are not sure where to start, contact us today and we can help you out!
Start your fall maintenance checklist today before you forget! Sometimes winter can strike early and you’ll be unexpectedly caught in the cold. The last thing you want is for a burst pipe or falling gutters to ruin an otherwise cozy winter day.
Don’t have time to complete your checklist? Call us at Copper Mechanical Ltd for help!
See our checklist below to save to your phone or computer.
[contact-form]
]]>
To many homeowners, building codes are arbitrary, confusing and expensive. I’ve found this to be especially true when it comes to dryer vent materials. However, codes exist to keep you safe and your dryer vent in proper working order, so it’s crucial to abide by them.
One of the biggest code offenders is the wrong kind of dryer venting material. I find that homeowners have improper materials not on purpose but because of a lack of knowledge on the subject. Let’s take a look at the codes related to dryer vent exhaust systems, or the part that goes from the back of your dryer to outside your home.
Safety first: Most building code requirements are safety related, and this is certainly true of dryer vent codes. Dryers cause 92 percent of all reported appliance fires, according to the National Fire Prevention Association. Ensuring a dryer vent is constructed of proper material is one important step in reducing the risk of a dryer-related fire.
Why exactly is it so important? Think about it this way: The inside of a dryer contains all three elements for a healthy fire.
1. Ignition source: The heating element within the machine
2. Oxygen: Continuous airflow in and out of the machine
3. Combustibles: Clothes to help catch and spread any sparks
How to avoid sparking a fire: Air must circulate regularly to cool the appliance. A dryer pulls in fresh air from the room, circulates it through the dryer, moves it into the dryer vent and then pushes the air outside the home. Proper vent materials create better airflow. The better the airflow, the slower the lint builds up inside the machine, which lowers the risk of sparking a fire.
Proper venting material: A code-compliant dryer vent is constructed of a rigid pipe of nonflammable material with a smooth interior finish. The smooth interior inhibits lint buildup in grooves, and it is not easily crushed or broken.
While building codes differ around the country, two code-compliant vent material options are solid aluminum pipe that is at least 0.4 millimeters thick or galvanized steel pipe. Of the two options, I prefer to use aluminum pipe as it does not rust.
Note: You should always check your local city building codes to make sure you are using compliant materials and installation methods for your dryer vent exhaust system.
Improper venting material: These are common venting materials that are non-code compliant, as determined by the guidelines of the International Residential Code and International Mechanical Code.
1. Foil: Foil is a non-code-compliant venting material because it is extremely flammable. Additionally, foil does not have a smooth interior finish. Rather, the material features grooves on the inside, which allows lint to accumulate and clog the vent, creating a fire hazard.
2. PVC: This material is not compliant with standards because the material itself is flammable. Additionally, a PVC pipe causes static electricity to form as the dryer circulates air to move lint outside. This static electricity attracts lint and creates an extra “glue” for the lint to attach to the inside of the vent line. Lint buildup provides additional flammable material.
3. Vinyl: Vinyl is also flammable and does not have a smooth interior finish. In addition, over time, vinyl will dry out and crack, which will compromise the vent line. The flimsy material puts the dryer vent at higher risk to be crushed, which will restrict airflow and cause lint buildup, creating a fire hazard.
Identifying code compliance: Although these materials are not code compliant and a fire hazard, I’ve come across them many times, as have other Dryer Vent Wizard technicians, when completing inspections. Identifying compliant versus noncompliant materials can be tricky because many of these materials look similar.
In addition to the type of material used, there are also specific regulations on the thickness of the pipe, the kind of tape used to connect joints, proper suspension of the line and other installation factors.
Find help, if needed: If you are unsure whether your dryer vent system is code compliant or you are looking to replace it, consult a local dryer vent installation or repair professional. He or she will know the local code requirements and can help you address any issues or concerns.
The goal is to ensure dryer vents are installed and functioning properly to help keep you, your family and your home safe.
Do you have any Dryer Vent issues or concerns?
Contact us by phone or through this online form, we will get back to you as soon as we can.
Whether your gorgeous vintage bathtub is the focal point of your bathroom or you’re just stuck with an old tub, you want to keep it looking clean and brand new. But how? We found the best ways to keep your tub sparkling; read on for tips on taking care of your porcelain beauty.
What to Avoid
Porcelain enamel is painted over and fused to cast-iron, so you don’t want to use any abrasive cleansers that could ding or chip the porcelain. Cleaners like scouring powder, white vinegar and steel wool should also be avoided, as they can damage the finish.
What to Use
For gentle weekly cleaning, look for store-bought cleansers that are marked “safe for porcelain enamel”, or make your own by mixing a few tablespoons of dishwashing soap with about a gallon of hot water. Use a rag or soft sponge to scrub the porcelain, and then rinse well with water.
Deeper Clean
For a deeper cleaning on your tub, add ¼ cup of ammonia and ¼ cup of baking soda to a bucket of warm water. While the baking soda is a little bit abrasive, it is not so rough that it will damage your enamel, and the ammonia will help to cut any grease or soap scum that has built up. Soak a soft sponge in this mix and gently scrub your porcelain until the stains are removed. Be sure to rinse off the paste. (Only use this technique once a month at the most.)
Add Shine
Adding a little shine to your tub is easy! Take a clean rag and dab lemon oil on it. Rub the rag all over the sides of your tub – but not the bottom, since the oil will make it slippery – to add a light coating and a glimmering finish.
Source: HowStuffWorks
Related Posts
]]>
If you have a a porcelain tub you wish to replace, contact us and you may be able to trade in your existing porcelain tub for a discount on our bathtub models.
Things You Will Need
- Household cleaner
- Screwdriver
- Painter’s tape
- Rubber gloves
- Trisodium phosphate or phosphate-free substitute
- Scrub brush
- Fine-grit sandpaper
- Sanding block or palm sander
- Shop vacuum
- Tack cloth
- Plastic sheeting
- Acrylic primer
- Commercial-grade paint sprayer
- Scrap lumber
- Epoxy acrylic or acrylic polyurethane enamel paint
- Silicone caulking
- Caulk gun
- Clean the bathtub inside and out to remove any soap scum. Use any household cleaner for this step. Rinse the tub well and allow it to air dry.
- Put on rubber gloves. Scrub the entire surface of the tub with trisodium phosphate or a phosphate-free substitute. You can find these items at a store that sells paint. Trisodium phosphate, or TSP, helps degloss the original porcelain surface. Rinse the bathtub with clean water and allow it to dry.
- Remove the faucet handles and the drain spout if they are on the bathtub. Use a screwdriver to remove the handles. The tub spout should twist off by turning it counterclockwise. Place painter’s tape on the metal portion of the drain and any other metal plumbing fixtures that you cannot remove from the tub.
- Sand the entire surface of the porcelain bathtub with fine-grit sandpaper. Either sand by hand with a sanding block or use a palm sander. Remove all the dust with a shop vacuum cleaner. Wipe the bathtub’s surface with a tack cloth to remove any dust the vacuum missed.
- Cover all surfaces surrounding the bathtub with plastic sheeting. Tape edges of the sheeting with painter’s tape to keep paint off walls and flooring.
- Pour acrylic primer into the paint pot of a commercial-grade spray painter. If you don’t own one of these items, rent one at a home improvement store or rental center. They deliver a more consistent spray than a household-grade spray painter. Fasten the pot to the air compressor portion of the painter.
- Practice spraying the primer onto the surface of a piece of scrap lumber. Make horizontal passes with the paint gun. Release the trigger at the end of each pass to avoid over-spraying and drips.
- Spray the bathtub with a coat of primer. Allow the primer time to dry. In most cases, 30 minutes is sufficient, but humidity may require a longer drying time. Give the bathtub a second coat of primer and allow it to dry as well.
- Pour epoxy acrylic or acrylic polyurethane enamel paint into the paint pot. Coat the bathtub with a coat of paint. Let the paint dry. Give the bathtub a second and third coat of paint, allowing the paint to dry thoroughly between each coat.
- Allow the paint to cure at least 48 hours before reinstalling the plumbing fixtures. Replace the silicone caulking around the bathtub, if necessary, with a bead of new caulking to seal moisture out of the joints where walls or floor and the bathtub meet.
Tips
- If your tub has small nicks in the surface and you don’t want to repaint the entire tub, you can repair them with appliance repair paint. Dab the repair paint on the nick with the applicator in the bottle and feather the edges to blend with the surrounding surfaces. Allow the paint to dry.
Warnings
- Open windows and doors to allow adequate ventilation while you are using the spray painter.
- Wear a mask and protective eyewear as you use the spray gun.
Source: HomeGuides
Need Paint Inspiration?
]]>Lime and calcium streaks can leave your tub looking dull and chalky. Clean off these hard water deposits in a few simple steps to keep your fixtures looking shiny and new – and give your old bathroom an instant upgrade.
Spray Clean
Either buy a lime removing cleanser – although some can be very harsh – or make a mix in a spray bottle of white vinegar and water. You can use this to clean your tub, shower and fixtures. Spray your cleanser on the walls of the tub, fixtures and shower walls and scrub down with a damp rag or paper towel. Or, soak a towel in a bowl of your mixture and use the wet towel as a scrubber. You should see the hard water stains disappearing immediately.
Add Power
If you’re not seeing the results you were hoping for, make a paste of white vinegar and baking soda for more cleaning power. Spread on the stains and let sit for about 15 minutes; then wipe off with a damp rag or paper towel and make sure to dry the spot afterwards to prevent further staining.
Avoid New Streaks
If you’re continually seeing streaks and spots from hard water, the best thing you can do is start preventing the stains. After showers and baths, spray the tub with either a daily cleanser or a mix of vinegar and water — then wipe down the tub so the water can’t leave any spots.
Source: HowStuffWorks
Related Posts
]]>